The mountain range that, for centuries, has sharply separated an entire region located in the northern interior of Portugal, its name: Trás-os-Montes; and served as an obstacle to its development. They remind us of the phrase used by the man who was born here, Miguel Torga: ‘Those who are here are in charge!’. This expression is so popular in these parts that it clearly describes the isolated relationship between this region with itsunique characteristics and the rest of the country, the result of the vagaries imposed bythese mountains. Travelling along the meandering National Road 15, which links Porto to Bragança, although it’s now easier to explore the region, you won’t be able to makethe journey quickly, but the contrasting landscapes make up for the delay: the views are astonishing.
Today, the Marão is not the obstacle, but the gateway to lands of unrivalled beauty, countless charms, unique challenges and the search for singular secrets.
There’s a whole Marvellous Kingdom to discover!
The Marão Ultra Trail offers a genuine adventure challenge, travelling on foot throughthe most fearsome mountains and the roughest peaks of this mountain range, sometimessnowy and sometimes rocky, bordered by the rivers Tâmega (west), Corgo (east) andDouro (south). Trails full of history that transport us to the imagery of other times andmake us feel how rough these mountains are for their people. People of sacrifice andsimplicity. Never give in to difficulties. Dream. Accept the challenge. Believe in it. Andreach the jewel of Tâmega.
The Challenge begins in Mondim de Basto, a historic town in Trás-os-Montes withmany traces of influence from the Minho region. Here truly begins a journey ofdiscovery of these mountain ranges, the Marvellous Kingdom. The path leads us intothe unknown and concentration is required. Walking along trails with millennia ofhistory and others that are already centuries old, you soon come across a demandingclimb to the top of Monte Farinha and the iconic Sanctuary of Nossa Senhora da Graça, a must-see place with privileged views at 900 metres above sea level. We recommendthat you stay as long as you can see. Losing elevation and travelling along the stunningLevada do Piscaredo, the rivers Cabril and Cabrão, the Mestras, you finally reach Fojo. In the heart of the protected area of the Alvão Natural Park, you’ll find the beautifulvillage of Varzigueto, a traditional village of shepherds and flocks, made up of rural houses built from granite and thatched roofs. The landscapes are breathtaking andvertigo-inducing, with the dazzling Olo river flowing swiftly, inviting you to take a dipon hot days, the powerful waterfalls of the Fisgas de Ermelo, its many cascades, thePiocas. Its unique and wild beauty awakens the senses and makes you want to come back again and again. When you reach Ermelo, a village that seems to have remainedindifferent to the changes of time, it still has the most beautiful rural houses made ofgranite and with slate roofs. Then you take the Levada do Moinho do Lombo to thesublime EN304, descend to the River Sião and ascend to Lomba Gorda, and you can already see the bucolic village of Pardelhas. It’s a mountain village nestled in the massifof the western Marones mountains, lost in time and modernity, and where you can stillrecognise a very traditional identity, essentially in pastoralism. Leaving the comfort ofPardelhas, we recommend that participants leave the petrol station well warmed up. First, you’ll run through the magnificent rough valley of Chão do Rosso. You’re justpassing through, as the Iberian bears once were; the brambles are a reminder of this. There are trails torn through the rocks, plus levadas and pinnacles to shout at theheavens, intersecting the Freixieiro corral, the Inca trail, old lime mines and the villageof Campanhó. Then you enter the enchanted valley of Porto Velho. It’s easy to fall in love with the beauties you come across. Every step you take here is the certainty that thechallenge makes its adventurers happier. Once you reach the foot of Pena Suar, you’llfollow a stunning trail and after the old ranger’s house, you’ll take pastoral paths to Covelo do Monte. You then follow the ‘donkey trail’ where in times gone by ox cartstore up the flagstones. From Ribeira do Covelo comes the tough climb to Gavião. Enjoythe panoramic view and descend until you enter the magical Lameira forest. Follow thechapel of Senhora da Moreira and rush along the old Romany road to Ansiães, nicknamed the Heart of Marão. Here you can rest and enjoy the base of life. The beautyof Marão is breathtaking and the magical scenery changes abruptly. After the CentenaryForest, with its grand sequoias, the steadily ascending trail leads to Alto das Veias andthen to Portal da Freita. This is the appetiser, a kind of rolling vertical KM. Caution iscalled for. These two summits, when faced with winter weather conditions, are fearsome. It’s a storm. Take shelter as the altitude drops and you enter a marvellousgrove of birch trees, nicknamed ‘the brides of the forest’. The village of Montes appearsand the people are very friendly, just like in Cotorinho. The exuberant beauty of thewoods flanking the Moinhos river gives you strength to tackle the Marão Vertical KM. You’re still halfway up the climb and you’re faced with a monstrous wall. Rough, rugged, aggressive and savage cliffs surround you. Resilience. The struggle expandsyour anger, but your soul is cosy. This is your Kingdom. The Astronomical Observatoryappears. We conquer the highest point of the mountain range, the Vértice do Marão (1416m). And we are comforted in the refuge of Senhora da Serra, where the more vigorous are invited to continue their journey, but first take advantage and enjoy: theviews of ‘The Marvellous Kingdom’ are superb.
It leads away from the Marvellous Kingdom. The long descent past the summit of Fraga da Ermida, Encosta das Lajes and Seixinhos offers superb panoramic views. Betweenthe Marão and the Douro. Between the coast and the interior. Mafómedes is one of theselittle paradises. The centuries-old chestnut and oak forests stretch on and on. Up themountain, over the pass between Penedo Ruivo and Chorida, it’s always much easier. Passing through a lush forest, which the locals insist on taking care of, you come acrossanother village half-forgotten by modern times. From Póvoa you take the road pastPenedo Longo, the Corvachã plateau, picturesque villages and you’re in Travanca do Monte. Here you can breathe peace, quiet and tranquillity. Here time stands still. Letyourself be infected by the relaxation of everyday life.
On rural trails, you enter the Aboboreira mountain range. The largest megalithicnecropolis in Portugal. On mountain paths you descend past Aldeia Velha and wanderthrough a succession of lush waterfalls along the Goiva stream. You reach the riverOvelha. You take a short climb along the levada of Salvador do Monte. This is followedby a short descent to the Formão track. The final two kilometres offer excellent views ofthe River Tâmega. The flat, forested route provides the desired respite and allows you to admire the beautiful riverside area where the city of Amarante, nicknamed ‘ThePrincess of the Tâmega’, naturally stands out. A magical place where generations meet, where culture, history and traditions interact. The final stop on this challenge.
